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This marks pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, especially for all the curries and other hearty meals of fall. Today's Rajasthani sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a lovely flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is packed with whole spices, basmati and clarified butter, which provide enhanced flavour to the strata of grains and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on early October, so how perfect to celebrate than with a rich, comforting, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, prepare the vegetable curry component in advance and layer all components on the day you want to serve.

Prep 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the gravy. Heat the ghee in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, add the cumin, bay leaves and cloves, and fry for a few seconds. Stir in the onion slices and sauté, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and set aside (you'll use them later during the layering).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, fry for a minute, then mix in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric and coriander, and sauté for a short while. Reduce to a low heat, stir in the yogurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Add the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, stir to coat in the spices, then fry for several minutes. Add the liquid, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, cover and cook gently for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to ensure no sticking to the bottom of the pot. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then remove from the heat.

Heat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Wash the basmati, then place it in a pot with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom and salt. Heat to boiling, cook for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, place a spoonful of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in half the spiced vegetables, then top that with some the rice. Add half the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint leaves, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Layer with the rest of vegetable curry, then spoon on the remaining grains. Finish with the remaining clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Seal with baking paper, place lid securely, then cook on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours infuse the grains. Take out of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the lid and present with raita and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Hindi term "pickling style" refers to flavouring a dish using preserving spices, and the mix contains mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, asafoetida and nigella, but their use extends beyond in pickles. The blend also features in all manner of curries and sautéed preparations, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, roughly grind, then set aside. Put the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Add the crushed spices and the hing, and sauté, mixing, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, cook for a short while, then add the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for five minutes more.

Add a small amount liquid to the pan, salt with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, reduce the flame, and simmer for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Add the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a bit, then add the mango powder, stir well and serve warm with chapatis or naan.